1
2
I am given to understand that these two pumps are the same-made by Laing.
Has anyone had any experience either or suggest another possibility?
Has anyone had any experience either or suggest another possibility?
![[gb]](/mwf/v12/flags/gb.png "United Kingdom")
If they are within your budget I would highly recommend the Laing D5 pump. I have 3 of them, the oldest being about 4 years old and they all run 24 hours a day 7 days a week without an issue so far.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7272/ex-pmp-63/XSPC_Laing_DDC_Reservoir_Pump_Attachment_w_MCP-350355_No_Fittings.html?tl=g30c107s152
I have also built a few computers with the DDC combination above and found them to be a very good choice in smaller cases but I would get the 18w rather than the 10w model.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7272/ex-pmp-63/XSPC_Laing_DDC_Reservoir_Pump_Attachment_w_MCP-350355_No_Fittings.html?tl=g30c107s152
I have also built a few computers with the DDC combination above and found them to be a very good choice in smaller cases but I would get the 18w rather than the 10w model.
The only place I can get the Laing D5 is from Danger Den,com. and they aren't giving spec's. The Reservoir will fit into a double bay?
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/12V-Laing-D5-Vario-Pump-Swiftech-MCP655_146.html
Full specs there. With the D5 you pretty much have to use 1/2" hose as it gets messy using down sizing converters, it also requires a separate reservoir so in that sense it is reasonably flexible.
I have recently built a few machines using this pump http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/12V-Laing-DDC-1T-Ultra-18W-Swiftech-MCP355_91.html which allows the use of 3/8 tubing which seems to offer very similar performance to 1/2" but can make installation in smaller spaces much easier.
It also offers the opportunity to use a combined pump/reservoir like this http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/12V-Laing-DDC-1T-Ultra-18W-wXSPC-Acrylic-Tank-Reservoir_394.html which is probably the most convenient set up to install (usually on the case floor).
Full specs there. With the D5 you pretty much have to use 1/2" hose as it gets messy using down sizing converters, it also requires a separate reservoir so in that sense it is reasonably flexible.
I have recently built a few machines using this pump http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/12V-Laing-DDC-1T-Ultra-18W-Swiftech-MCP355_91.html which allows the use of 3/8 tubing which seems to offer very similar performance to 1/2" but can make installation in smaller spaces much easier.
It also offers the opportunity to use a combined pump/reservoir like this http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/12V-Laing-DDC-1T-Ultra-18W-wXSPC-Acrylic-Tank-Reservoir_394.html which is probably the most convenient set up to install (usually on the case floor).
radiator fans 3-
Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm Fan
I already had determined to use 1/2 tubing -
Clear Tubing
with these clamps-
Reusable
with this reservoir-
this reservoir
Pump-
DangerDen
IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate
And this radiator-
Radiator
with this
cpu block
Newer versions are suppose supply a 2011 back-plate.
Barb Fittings
Of course-
3930k
memory-
Either -
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB
or
CORSAIR DOMINATOR 16GB
I need to contact Frozen Cpu and make sure that no individual item shipping chargers are tack Newegg will do that. Then they put it all in one box. It's a rip off.
The only things not incorporated here are the Fans (out of stock) and pump gotten at Danger den.
Fans $26 for 3- Pump is $100 ($325+$26tax)$350=$476 (shipping no included).
and $960 for the board and chip. $1,450. approximately .
Feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!
Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm Fan
I already had determined to use 1/2 tubing -
Clear Tubing
with these clamps-
Reusable
with this reservoir-
this reservoir
Pump-
DangerDen
IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate
And this radiator-
Radiator
with this
cpu block
Newer versions are suppose supply a 2011 back-plate.
Barb Fittings
Of course-
3930k
memory-
Either -
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB
or
CORSAIR DOMINATOR 16GB
I need to contact Frozen Cpu and make sure that no individual item shipping chargers are tack Newegg will do that. Then they put it all in one box. It's a rip off.
The only things not incorporated here are the Fans (out of stock) and pump gotten at Danger den.
Fans $26 for 3- Pump is $100 ($325+$26tax)$350=$476 (shipping no included).
and $960 for the board and chip. $1,450. approximately .
Feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!
![[ca]](/mwf/v12/flags/ca.png "Canada")
Are these custom water systems superior to pre-made units such as Antecs and Corsairs? I have not seen a comparitive review. - Mike
My experience with the corsair self-contained cooling system was not a good one. I have a brand new one sitting in the back room in an unopened box-not even a rebuild- sent as a replacement from an RMA of the last one that failed.
Yet there are those, including Phil, who swear by them, and I respect his opinions. I just can nolonger trust those systems to be left unobserved. Hence, my decision to fly with my own build.
Yet there are those, including Phil, who swear by them, and I respect his opinions. I just can nolonger trust those systems to be left unobserved. Hence, my decision to fly with my own build.
>Are these custom water systems superior to pre-made units such as Antecs and Corsairs?
Hi,
Personally I have always found building your own custom water cooling to be be better than the pre made units .... A lot of the system I use is getting on a bit but never misses a beat although I do have to buy new CPU waterblocks as new mounting if often needed with new motherboards
Regards
I'm looking forward to your building a water-box! I like his test bed (he obviously doesn't know the virtue and elegance of working in wood! )
&feature=fvwrel'>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=&feature=fvwrel
)&feature=fvwrel'>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=&feature=fvwrel
Whenever I recommend an all in one water system it's as an upgrade to an air cooler and never as a downgrade to a custom water setup.
I have used a few of them and they are extremely simple and quick to install and work well enough when compared to huge air coolers that simply won't fit into some cases.
I have used a few of them and they are extremely simple and quick to install and work well enough when compared to huge air coolers that simply won't fit into some cases.
Phil, I'm ready to have my system built with 2 open questions for you and Arriere Pensee (and other watercooling experts.)
Based on the advice of you experts, this was my system list as of 11/11.
Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced Full Tower Case with SuperSpeed USB 3.0 (RC-932-KKN5-GP) $143 at Amazon.
(or more compact Antec P280 case)
Noctua NH-D14-2011 Dual Radiator Cooler with PWM fans, LGA2011 only
ASUS Sabertooth X79 TUF Motherboard - ATX, Socket R (LGA2011), $340 .
Intel i7 3930K processor, C2 Stepping $599.99
Corsair 850W Powersupply $169.99 CORSAIR Professional Series HX850
Intel 510 Series (Elm Crest) SSDSC2MH120A2K5 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) $280
SAMSUNG 830 Series F-MZ-7PC064DAM 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900)
Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB SATA III EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti DS Superclocked 1024 MB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0
DVD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD
Koutech IO-RCM630 Multi-in-1 USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Front Panel Internal Card Reader
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM $100 Amazon.
I waited till now for the Ivy Bridge. Ironically, it turns out that the 3930K with 6 cores will be better for chess.
So the two remaining questions:
1) the case: Haf932 is a monster. Now that I want to add water cooling, do I need all those fans?
What about the Coolermaster Cosmos S or HAF 922 or a large midtower like the Antec P280 (up to date and quiet)?
2) The perennial 64K question: what water cooling solution? I cannot expect my builder to assemble the cooling system by hand, as you guys do. What is the best and most reliable sealed cooling system available?
Your recommendation as of 12/11 was Corsair H100 cooling with a strong dissent from Arriere Pensee. In the last 5 months, has a rival to the H100 come along in the sealed cooling area?
Thanks, CMA
Based on the advice of you experts, this was my system list as of 11/11.
Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced Full Tower Case with SuperSpeed USB 3.0 (RC-932-KKN5-GP) $143 at Amazon.
(or more compact Antec P280 case)
Noctua NH-D14-2011 Dual Radiator Cooler with PWM fans, LGA2011 only
ASUS Sabertooth X79 TUF Motherboard - ATX, Socket R (LGA2011), $340 .
Intel i7 3930K processor, C2 Stepping $599.99
Corsair 850W Powersupply $169.99 CORSAIR Professional Series HX850
Intel 510 Series (Elm Crest) SSDSC2MH120A2K5 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) $280
SAMSUNG 830 Series F-MZ-7PC064DAM 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900)
Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB SATA III EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti DS Superclocked 1024 MB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0
DVD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD
Koutech IO-RCM630 Multi-in-1 USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Front Panel Internal Card Reader
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM $100 Amazon.
I waited till now for the Ivy Bridge. Ironically, it turns out that the 3930K with 6 cores will be better for chess.
So the two remaining questions:
1) the case: Haf932 is a monster. Now that I want to add water cooling, do I need all those fans?
What about the Coolermaster Cosmos S or HAF 922 or a large midtower like the Antec P280 (up to date and quiet)?
2) The perennial 64K question: what water cooling solution? I cannot expect my builder to assemble the cooling system by hand, as you guys do. What is the best and most reliable sealed cooling system available?
Your recommendation as of 12/11 was Corsair H100 cooling with a strong dissent from Arriere Pensee. In the last 5 months, has a rival to the H100 come along in the sealed cooling area?
Thanks, CMA
I would definitively not consider myself as an expert but as of today, I am not aware of a rival to the Corsair H100.
Bouddha, thanks. Do you own the Corsair H100?
![[be]](/mwf/v12/flags/be.png "Belgium")
Cooler Master Eisberg 120, Eisberg 240, and Eisberg 360 Water Cooling Solutions
"Performance wise, 10-12 degrees better than the competition."
http://www.overclock.net/t/1226720/cooler-master-eisberg-120-eisberg-240-and-eisberg-360-water-cooling-solutions
JP.
"Performance wise, 10-12 degrees better than the competition."
http://www.overclock.net/t/1226720/cooler-master-eisberg-120-eisberg-240-and-eisberg-360-water-cooling-solutions
JP.
Where are the benchmarks? I see a great deal of technology and showcasing but no stat's.
Where are the benchmarks? I see a great deal of technology and showcasing but no stat's. Where's the beef?
Looks like it definitely has the current H series beat. Better performance and expandable? A bit pricey but I'm sold.
But yes it indeed does appear to be a H series killer.
"Cooler Master has two new watercooling products on display at CeBIT; the Eisberg 240 and the Eisberg 120. As the product names suggest, these watercooling kits offer radiators with a size of 240mm and 120mm, respectively.
Both models offer a copper radiator that is designed to be used with two fans in push-pull configuration. Included in the kit is a waterpump from German manufacturer Eheim with ceramic bearings, it has a nominal operation speed of 1500rpm and a maximum speed of 3000rpm. The cooling fluid can be refilled and the kit uses standardized fittings so you can connect third-party components. Cooler Master says the included pump is powerful enough to simultaneously serve four CPU and four GPU cooling blocks.
The Eisberg 120 is expected to cost about 130EUR while the 240 edition should have a MSRP of around 140EUR. Availability is slated for late April, and Cooler Master added that a 360mm edition should follow afterwards.
In interview, the Eisberg manager claimed their product (presumably the 240 mm) would be "10 degrees better than the competition."
Talk is around May/June for the 120mm/240mm version and later date for 360mm
These Eisbergs will be the new standards for enthusiast vs the current closed loops of today."
I don't want to have to wait another month to build my system, but could the Eisberg be a huge improvement over the Corsair H100?
How difficult would it be for my tech to build my system with the Corsair H100 ($100). Then, if 2 months later, the Eisberg 240 (or 360) proves to be a everything promised, to have my builder replace the Corsair H100 with an Eisberg Cooler?
Also, since I will be getting water cooling, can I drop the Noctua NH-D14-2011 Dual Radiator Cooler? Phil Harris, wasn't the Noctua meant to be used only if one did not have water cooling?
But yes it indeed does appear to be a H series killer.
"Cooler Master has two new watercooling products on display at CeBIT; the Eisberg 240 and the Eisberg 120. As the product names suggest, these watercooling kits offer radiators with a size of 240mm and 120mm, respectively.
Both models offer a copper radiator that is designed to be used with two fans in push-pull configuration. Included in the kit is a waterpump from German manufacturer Eheim with ceramic bearings, it has a nominal operation speed of 1500rpm and a maximum speed of 3000rpm. The cooling fluid can be refilled and the kit uses standardized fittings so you can connect third-party components. Cooler Master says the included pump is powerful enough to simultaneously serve four CPU and four GPU cooling blocks.
The Eisberg 120 is expected to cost about 130EUR while the 240 edition should have a MSRP of around 140EUR. Availability is slated for late April, and Cooler Master added that a 360mm edition should follow afterwards.
In interview, the Eisberg manager claimed their product (presumably the 240 mm) would be "10 degrees better than the competition."
Talk is around May/June for the 120mm/240mm version and later date for 360mm
These Eisbergs will be the new standards for enthusiast vs the current closed loops of today."
I don't want to have to wait another month to build my system, but could the Eisberg be a huge improvement over the Corsair H100?
How difficult would it be for my tech to build my system with the Corsair H100 ($100). Then, if 2 months later, the Eisberg 240 (or 360) proves to be a everything promised, to have my builder replace the Corsair H100 with an Eisberg Cooler?
Also, since I will be getting water cooling, can I drop the Noctua NH-D14-2011 Dual Radiator Cooler? Phil Harris, wasn't the Noctua meant to be used only if one did not have water cooling?
The only thing there that's not to my taste is the tubing, and that's simply because I like to be able to see the flow of coolant through a clear pipe, everything else looks good to me.
I would certainly spring the extra $40 for the slightly faster RAM. I have the Vengeance 1600 and have found it unwilling to go even slightly above it's specs which is restrictive when trying to add a little Bclock tuning into the mix.
I would certainly spring the extra $40 for the slightly faster RAM. I have the Vengeance 1600 and have found it unwilling to go even slightly above it's specs which is restrictive when trying to add a little Bclock tuning into the mix.
I just added the clear tubing into the mix- it throws the cost up a few bucks. But I guess the idea is to see air bubbles?
I'm leaning toward the CORSAIR DOMINATOR 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model - if that's the one you were reflecting on. If ever I thought it necessary I could bring it up to 32 gig with another set .
I'm leaning toward the CORSAIR DOMINATOR 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model - if that's the one you were reflecting on. If ever I thought it necessary I could bring it up to 32 gig with another set .
no bubbles, should be straight fluid
Right, clear make it easier to see bubbles and the need to bleed the line.
Yes I believe the Dominator 16gb kit represents the sweet spot in terms of speed and value.
As for the clear tubing I simply prefer to be able to see whatever is going on in the water loop, be it bubbles or any form of contamination that might occur.
As for the clear tubing I simply prefer to be able to see whatever is going on in the water loop, be it bubbles or any form of contamination that might occur.
Do you use distilled water?
Distilled water with a few drops of copper sulphate as a Biocide. There are plenty of coolants made up which claim all sorts of properties but I haven't tried them myself as distilled water works well enough I think.
copper sulphate for algae control - I just have to figure out where to get it where I don't have to buy a 5lbs.
![[us]](/mwf/v12/flags/us.png "United States")
how about Benzalkonium chloride?
I'm not sure about that - I'm not a chemist but I wouldn't want to put something in that would be caustic.
benzalkonium chloride /ben·zal·ko·ni·um chlo·ride/ (ben″zal-ko´ne-um) a quaternary ammonium compound used as a surface disinfectant and detergent, topical antiseptic, and antimicrobial preservative.
benzalkonium chloride /ben·zal·ko·ni·um chlo·ride/ (ben″zal-ko´ne-um) a quaternary ammonium compound used as a surface disinfectant and detergent, topical antiseptic, and antimicrobial preservative.
look on ebay, and search for algacide
Added to list.Much thanks.
Distilled water cost near to nothing- you can get that at your grocery store, plus the bottle of that IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate Biocidal looks like it will last a long time. That would be just one more shipping charge no doubt.
Hi Phil,
Any experience with compression fittings? I'm ready to order today the entire Monty, and was tending toward compression fittings.
Any experience with compression fittings? I'm ready to order today the entire Monty, and was tending toward compression fittings.
I don't use them myself, I tend to think that as they depend on a joint that I can't actually see they represent a small extra risk of leakage. Also check how far apart the threads on the block are, as compression fittings are a little fatter, which can cause an issue if the inlet and outlet are close together.
With the right barb fitting and hose it should be a pretty tight fit. I always dunk the end of the hose in a cup of very hot water so it is easier to push over the fitting, when cool it should be pretty tough to remove. With the clips you chose nice and tight over the centre of the barb you are very unlikely to get a problem.
Obviously compression fittings wouldn't sell if they weren't pretty much as reliable as barbs, so what I say is only my opinion.
With the right barb fitting and hose it should be a pretty tight fit. I always dunk the end of the hose in a cup of very hot water so it is easier to push over the fitting, when cool it should be pretty tough to remove. With the clips you chose nice and tight over the centre of the barb you are very unlikely to get a problem.
Obviously compression fittings wouldn't sell if they weren't pretty much as reliable as barbs, so what I say is only my opinion.
I'll give them a try. I plan on setting this up outside the case and letting it run for quite a while. I have ties and ordered a few clamps as well just in the even the compression fittings don't work out. I also had to order green tubing . I wanted to stay clear of Frozen.com for the bulk of the order. I might try and tap and tie the pump, but I'm not sure if that is really worth the effort.
The hose fits so tight over the spigots on the pump that you need boiling water immersion of the hose to make it fit, the end result it usually so tight that I have had to carve the hose off with a scalpel because it won't pull off.
On my own machines I don't even bother with clips and have never had a problem (this only refers to the moulded spigots on the Laing D5, I always use clips on barbed fittings). I suggest keeping it as simple as possible.
On my own machines I don't even bother with clips and have never had a problem (this only refers to the moulded spigots on the Laing D5, I always use clips on barbed fittings). I suggest keeping it as simple as possible.
> I suggest keeping it as simple as possible.
Will do!
>Distilled water with a few drops of copper sulphate as a Biocide
Hi,
I simply add some car anti-freeze
Regards
50-50 %?
Just enough to keep it from icing!
>50-50 %?
No No lol
>Just enough to keep it from icing!
No No lol ..... Well yes if your running a water chiller but still do not need anywhere near a 50-50 mixture and of course it is harder to keep water fluid below 0C for the obvious reasons
..... It actually cleans and keeps all the nasty build ups awayRegards
Never know I might put the system out on the back porch! Hell, I have my mobo platform curing out there. Every time I go out there I can't help but break into the lumberjack song!
I'm no Girlie man! Give me PRIME 50/50!
Hell, I have my mobo platform curing out there. Every time I go out there I can't help but break into the lumberjack song! I'm no Girlie man! Give me PRIME 50/50!
you can donate it to the 3rd world.
(you do know I'm only kidding around, I hope! )
)
I do have one other question- the cpu block I can use for my 1366 i7 930 for a month or so until I switch over to a new board without issue -is that correct? It is supposed to have mounting brackets for both the 1366 and the 2011.
The spacing of the holes for LGA2011 is very slightly wider than LGA1366 but any of the block mounts that are an elongated oval in shape are going to fit.
The biggest difference between the two is that the 2011 has an M4 threaded hole for each mounting post, obviously if the kit you get suggests it is compatible with both you should get both mounting studs for the 2011 and through bolts for the 1366.
On mine I used M4x70mm bolts with knurled nuts and springs from another kit spun on then adjusted for tension once the bolts had been securely screwed through the board. This was only because kits were not yet available at the time.
The biggest difference between the two is that the 2011 has an M4 threaded hole for each mounting post, obviously if the kit you get suggests it is compatible with both you should get both mounting studs for the 2011 and through bolts for the 1366.
On mine I used M4x70mm bolts with knurled nuts and springs from another kit spun on then adjusted for tension once the bolts had been securely screwed through the board. This was only because kits were not yet available at the time.
I contacted Sidewinder - response to my query:
Yes, it will include the 2011 mounting hardware. The hold down is the same as 1366.
Backplates are always optional with Heatkiller blocks.
There is no backplate needed with LGA 2011.
Best Regards
Gary Stofer
Sidewinder Computer Systems
email: sales@sidewindercomputers.com
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com
Tel - +1 (317) 738-0949\
However to my knowledge this doesn't hold true for my original choice in Copper - I think you have to buy the Black Nickel
Black Nickel to get hardware included
Yes, it will include the 2011 mounting hardware. The hold down is the same as 1366.
Backplates are always optional with Heatkiller blocks.
There is no backplate needed with LGA 2011.
Best Regards
Gary Stofer
Sidewinder Computer Systems
email: sales@sidewindercomputers.com
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com
Tel - +1 (317) 738-0949\
However to my knowledge this doesn't hold true for my original choice in Copper - I think you have to buy the Black Nickel
Black Nickel to get hardware included
From what I can see there won't be an issue fitting the copper block in your original list.
The different fitting method of the 2011 is just that it has threaded holes in the socket mounting and therefore are not designed to be used with a backplate. As long as they include the actual threaded studs that fit the mounting holes (M4) then there shouldn't be a problem with either block.
I did have to slightly file the block mounting holes on the one I fitted, but that may have been a consequence of the previous bolts being M3.5. It was a case of no more than 3 strokes with a round file.
The different fitting method of the 2011 is just that it has threaded holes in the socket mounting and therefore are not designed to be used with a backplate. As long as they include the actual threaded studs that fit the mounting holes (M4) then there shouldn't be a problem with either block.
I did have to slightly file the block mounting holes on the one I fitted, but that may have been a consequence of the previous bolts being M3.5. It was a case of no more than 3 strokes with a round file.
There is only one thing left to do and that is to translate as much of the items over to Sidewinder.com
Sidewinder
Great Ratings
Sidewinder
Great Ratings
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