Has anyone had any experience either or suggest another possibility?
I have also built a few computers with the DDC combination above and found them to be a very good choice in smaller cases but I would get the 18w rather than the 10w model.
Full specs there. With the D5 you pretty much have to use 1/2" hose as it gets messy using down sizing converters, it also requires a separate reservoir so in that sense it is reasonably flexible.
I have recently built a few machines using this pump http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/12V-Laing-DDC-1T-Ultra-18W-Swiftech-MCP355_91.html which allows the use of 3/8 tubing which seems to offer very similar performance to 1/2" but can make installation in smaller spaces much easier.
It also offers the opportunity to use a combined pump/reservoir like this http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/12V-Laing-DDC-1T-Ultra-18W-wXSPC-Acrylic-Tank-Reservoir_394.html which is probably the most convenient set up to install (usually on the case floor).
Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm x 25mm Fan
I already had determined to use 1/2 tubing -
with these clamps-
with this reservoir-
IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate
And this radiator-
Newer versions are suppose supply a 2011 back-plate.
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB
CORSAIR DOMINATOR 16GB
I need to contact Frozen Cpu and make sure that no individual item shipping chargers are tack Newegg will do that. Then they put it all in one box. It's a rip off.
The only things not incorporated here are the Fans (out of stock) and pump gotten at Danger den.
Fans $26 for 3- Pump is $100 ($325+$26tax)$350=$476 (shipping no included).
and $960 for the board and chip. $1,450. approximately .
Feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!
Yet there are those, including Phil, who swear by them, and I respect his opinions. I just can nolonger trust those systems to be left unobserved. Hence, my decision to fly with my own build.
>Are these custom water systems superior to pre-made units such as Antecs and Corsairs?
Personally I have always found building your own custom water cooling to be be better than the pre made units .... A lot of the system I use is getting on a bit but never misses a beat although I do have to buy new CPU waterblocks as new mounting if often needed with new motherboards
I have used a few of them and they are extremely simple and quick to install and work well enough when compared to huge air coolers that simply won't fit into some cases.
Based on the advice of you experts, this was my system list as of 11/11.
Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced Full Tower Case with SuperSpeed USB 3.0 (RC-932-KKN5-GP) $143 at Amazon.
(or more compact Antec P280 case)
Noctua NH-D14-2011 Dual Radiator Cooler with PWM fans, LGA2011 only
ASUS Sabertooth X79 TUF Motherboard - ATX, Socket R (LGA2011), $340 .
Intel i7 3930K processor, C2 Stepping $599.99
Corsair 850W Powersupply $169.99 CORSAIR Professional Series HX850
Intel 510 Series (Elm Crest) SSDSC2MH120A2K5 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) $280
SAMSUNG 830 Series F-MZ-7PC064DAM 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900)
Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB SATA III EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti DS Superclocked 1024 MB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0
DVD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD
Koutech IO-RCM630 Multi-in-1 USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Front Panel Internal Card Reader
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM $100 Amazon.
I waited till now for the Ivy Bridge. Ironically, it turns out that the 3930K with 6 cores will be better for chess.
So the two remaining questions:
1) the case: Haf932 is a monster. Now that I want to add water cooling, do I need all those fans?
What about the Coolermaster Cosmos S or HAF 922 or a large midtower like the Antec P280 (up to date and quiet)?
2) The perennial 64K question: what water cooling solution? I cannot expect my builder to assemble the cooling system by hand, as you guys do. What is the best and most reliable sealed cooling system available?
Your recommendation as of 12/11 was Corsair H100 cooling with a strong dissent from Arriere Pensee. In the last 5 months, has a rival to the H100 come along in the sealed cooling area?
"Performance wise, 10-12 degrees better than the competition."
But yes it indeed does appear to be a H series killer.
"Cooler Master has two new watercooling products on display at CeBIT; the Eisberg 240 and the Eisberg 120. As the product names suggest, these watercooling kits offer radiators with a size of 240mm and 120mm, respectively.
Both models offer a copper radiator that is designed to be used with two fans in push-pull configuration. Included in the kit is a waterpump from German manufacturer Eheim with ceramic bearings, it has a nominal operation speed of 1500rpm and a maximum speed of 3000rpm. The cooling fluid can be refilled and the kit uses standardized fittings so you can connect third-party components. Cooler Master says the included pump is powerful enough to simultaneously serve four CPU and four GPU cooling blocks.
The Eisberg 120 is expected to cost about 130EUR while the 240 edition should have a MSRP of around 140EUR. Availability is slated for late April, and Cooler Master added that a 360mm edition should follow afterwards.
In interview, the Eisberg manager claimed their product (presumably the 240 mm) would be "10 degrees better than the competition."
Talk is around May/June for the 120mm/240mm version and later date for 360mm
These Eisbergs will be the new standards for enthusiast vs the current closed loops of today."
I don't want to have to wait another month to build my system, but could the Eisberg be a huge improvement over the Corsair H100?
How difficult would it be for my tech to build my system with the Corsair H100 ($100). Then, if 2 months later, the Eisberg 240 (or 360) proves to be a everything promised, to have my builder replace the Corsair H100 with an Eisberg Cooler?
Also, since I will be getting water cooling, can I drop the Noctua NH-D14-2011 Dual Radiator Cooler? Phil Harris, wasn't the Noctua meant to be used only if one did not have water cooling?
I would certainly spring the extra $40 for the slightly faster RAM. I have the Vengeance 1600 and have found it unwilling to go even slightly above it's specs which is restrictive when trying to add a little Bclock tuning into the mix.
I'm leaning toward the CORSAIR DOMINATOR 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model - if that's the one you were reflecting on. If ever I thought it necessary I could bring it up to 32 gig with another set .
As for the clear tubing I simply prefer to be able to see whatever is going on in the water loop, be it bubbles or any form of contamination that might occur.
benzalkonium chloride /ben·zal·ko·ni·um chlo·ride/ (ben″zal-ko´ne-um) a quaternary ammonium compound used as a surface disinfectant and detergent, topical antiseptic, and antimicrobial preservative.
Any experience with compression fittings? I'm ready to order today the entire Monty, and was tending toward compression fittings.
With the right barb fitting and hose it should be a pretty tight fit. I always dunk the end of the hose in a cup of very hot water so it is easier to push over the fitting, when cool it should be pretty tough to remove. With the clips you chose nice and tight over the centre of the barb you are very unlikely to get a problem.
Obviously compression fittings wouldn't sell if they weren't pretty much as reliable as barbs, so what I say is only my opinion.
On my own machines I don't even bother with clips and have never had a problem (this only refers to the moulded spigots on the Laing D5, I always use clips on barbed fittings). I suggest keeping it as simple as possible.
> I suggest keeping it as simple as possible.
>Distilled water with a few drops of copper sulphate as a Biocide
I simply add some car anti-freeze
No No lol
>Just enough to keep it from icing!
No No lol ..... Well yes if your running a water chiller but still do not need anywhere near a 50-50 mixture and of course it is harder to keep water fluid below 0C for the obvious reasons ..... It actually cleans and keeps all the nasty build ups away
I'm no Girlie man! Give me PRIME 50/50!
The biggest difference between the two is that the 2011 has an M4 threaded hole for each mounting post, obviously if the kit you get suggests it is compatible with both you should get both mounting studs for the 2011 and through bolts for the 1366.
On mine I used M4x70mm bolts with knurled nuts and springs from another kit spun on then adjusted for tension once the bolts had been securely screwed through the board. This was only because kits were not yet available at the time.
Yes, it will include the 2011 mounting hardware. The hold down is the same as 1366.
Backplates are always optional with Heatkiller blocks.
There is no backplate needed with LGA 2011.
Sidewinder Computer Systems
Tel - +1 (317) 738-0949\
However to my knowledge this doesn't hold true for my original choice in Copper - I think you have to buy the Black Nickel
Black Nickel to get hardware included
The different fitting method of the 2011 is just that it has threaded holes in the socket mounting and therefore are not designed to be used with a backplate. As long as they include the actual threaded studs that fit the mounting holes (M4) then there shouldn't be a problem with either block.
I did have to slightly file the block mounting holes on the one I fitted, but that may have been a consequence of the previous bolts being M3.5. It was a case of no more than 3 strokes with a round file.
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